February 25, 2022

By Gehazi Whitehurst

Background

Smells of homemade bagels waft from the bakery on Ninth Street in Columbia at 5:30 a.m. Goldie’s Bagels opens Tuesday-Sunday at 7 a.m. until they sell out to serve members of the community. 

The bakery moved to its new location in fall 2021, featuring a soft opening on Dec. 17. They previously sold products out of Pizza Tree, located on the corner of Ninth Street and Cherry Street. Amanda Rainey, owner of both Pizza Tree and Goldie’s Bagels, learned how to make perfect bagels in her free time during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020. Rainey and her husband began offering bagels out of this facility to continue making profits, as a majority of Pizza Tree’s sales came from the downtown nightlife. However, when heavy restrictions were lifted around Columbia, Rainey knew she needed her own location to live out her bagel shop dreams.

Opportunity struck when the owner of Harold’s Donuts offered their space to Rainey and head baker Jill Rostine. The location was already set up as a bakery, so after fixing up the business to their liking, Rainey and Rostine were thrilled to open Goldie’s Bagels in fall 2021. 

Experience

Stepping into the shop, to the right are employees with bright smiles, creating all kinds of bagels and cream cheeses. Considering how early these workers arrive for their job, I was pleasantly surprised by the welcoming energy in the space. 

The business holds a “home away from home” atmosphere with eclectic kitchen decor and glass fixtures hanging on the ceilings. Near the back of the shop, photos from ​​bar and bat mitzvahs, Jewish cookbooks and Judaica fill the right wall. Being Jewish herself, Rainey accepts items brought in from people around the area. 

A feeling of nostalgia sets in as early morning risers greet one another inside. Conversations quietly drift around the shop, and light, mood-boosting music complements this tone. As I sat at a table waiting to get my first taste of this new business, the smell of bagels in the ovens built my anticipation for what I was about to receive.

Yenta

I wanted to try an open-faced sandwich, so I chose Yenta with lox, a Yiddish word for a filet of brined salmon, and plain cream cheese on a tzitzel bagel. Before eating it, I had to appreciate the colorful presentation before me. Vibrant greens of cucumber slices, capers, dill, lox and onion sat on top of the cream cheese. A lemon slice rested off to the side, but adding the juice to the bagel pulled all of the flavors together. 

My first bite invited a savory taste into my senses. While the bagel and cream cheese neutralized the flavors, the lox and vegetables created a salty experience. Lemon juice enhanced the sandwich by balancing the tastes, making for a refreshing meal. I believe I’d enjoy the sandwich even without the lox if I was looking for a less fishy taste.

Bagels and cream cheeses

In addition to Yenta, I decided to try two other bagels: the everything bagel on plain cream cheese and a plain bagel with Nutella cream cheese. Both were stuffed with cream cheese on huge bagels, making them a great meal to start off the day with. These two bagels complemented one another well. 

First, the everything bagel was a piquant experience. The outside texture of the bagel was extremely tough in comparison to the other bagels I tried; however, its pleasantly pungent taste made up for this. With just the cream cheese on it, I could appreciate the overall rich flavor.

I’d consider the plain bagel with Nutella cream cheese an item for a sweeter palate. This plain bagel had a flakey exterior with a fluffy inside. I couldn’t imagine having the Nutella cream cheese on another bagel on the menu because of how sugary it is. The cream cheese melted out from the side of the warm bagel, and, as I took the first bite, an indulgent experience set in. It has a malt-like flavor, and the light texture of the cream cheese made a delightful taste. Although enjoyable, I couldn’t finish the bagel all in one sitting because of how strong the sweet flavor was. 

I would recommend Goldie’s Bagels to anyone who needs a good start to their morning. The variety of bagels, cream cheeses and toppings on the menu provide options for any taste someone might be seeking. The atmosphere of the business is a reminder that its bagels are fresh and homemade everyday. 

Edited by Shannon Worley, sworley@themaneater.com